I think your bed is warping slightly as it heats up, which is normal. Set your bed temp to 105 for half an hour before starting your print and see if it still happens. If you have a V0 or other manually levelled printer, get the bed to 105 before levelling.

Regulations are written in blood, and disclaimers are written in lawsuits.

What are your bed temps for PLA and ASA? Does it still happen if you preheat the bed? If you rotate the print, does the rough spot follow the rotation?

Former Oculus Go users:

First time?

DAK catalogs were wild. Each item had a magazine article length description that was clearly bullshit. But by the end you’re certain that the constant emptiness you feel is from not owning the World’s Best 16 Channel Stereo Graphic Equalizer.

An alkaline AA may have more capacity, but the LiPo has lower internal resistance and it’s electrolyte is flammable. The worst the alkaline would do it shorted or punctured is get warm and poop out KOH.

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You’d plug your mouse into the serial port and your scanner into your printer port. Wild times.

$ :|wc -c 0 $ touch /tmp/f; :>>/tmp/f; wc -c /tmp/f 0 /tmp/f

You don’t need the original source to program a flashlight. If it’s ATTiny based then Anduril has your back.

Nope.

UPDI used on Atmel micros on Anduril capable flashlights uses a single line for debug and flashing. Much earlier than that, Motorola/Freescale/NXP Coldfire, S12, and some other MCUs used BDM which was also a single wire protocol.

If you want to flash a newer Anduril to this light, look here for hardware and procedures to use those pads.

Yep. I can get ASA down to 12% with an ambient 50%RH using that method.

There are some models out there for wedges with reverse Bowden fittings so you can keep it cracked open all the time.

USB 5V power can be equally noisy, even from a powered hub, so that argument doesn’t make any sense. PCIe has a high current 12V rail available that has much more margin than USB for filtering with an LDO and run your signal chain well above the noise floor of the components.

Besides, Asus Xonar as in the picture can take 12V from a drive connector to bypass the motherboard PCIe 12V “just in case”.

Try running your dryer with the lid propped open a bit. Most Sunlu dryers don’t have a way to get rid of the humid air pulled out of the filament.

Most of that cost is modem I’m sure. The ESP32, RP2040, and all the support hardware around both add under $5 to the BOM.

There are a bunch of boards with a combo of RP2040 and ESP32, probably because the RP2040 has the PIO accelerators and the ESP32 is much more rigid with I/O. If anything, I’d ditch the ESP32 on this board if your application doesn’t need WiFi or Bluetooth.

Edit: I didn’t realize the ESP32 is the -C3. It’s no slouch, but your code shares the single risc-v core with the radio stack. So it’s better off here as a dedicated radio processor and letting the RP2040 run your application if you need more grunt than polling a sensor every so often.

I mean, if I had the disposable income I’d get a Flipper Zero to mess around with, but it’s not on my list of things I need for my hardware hacking go-bag.

What’s the need you’re trying to fill?

If you want to get into RF, and not just for hacking a few specific protocols, an RTL-SDR is a better choice and much, much cheaper than a Flipper Zero. For $40 on Amazon you can get an RTL-SDR.com kit complete with antennas that will let you capture data from smart meters, aircraft beacons, police radio, and even detect individual cars driving nearby by capturing serial numbers from their TPMS sensors.

Thanks to Alec I have strong opinions about extension cords and gas lanterns.

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Also Professor Charles Javier